New York's Take on a New England Favorite

Having spent my summers at overnight camp in Maine during my more formable years, I have a fond memory of sneaking away from camp on parent’s weekend to go to the local lobster pound like The Lobster Pound in Naples, Maine, where lobsters are simply served steamed with drawn butter on a picnic table with plastic bibs and paper towels. I always opted for the twin lobster (two lobsters, 1 lb each) because the meat is sweetest when the lobsters are smaller. Transitioning my lobster pound memories to NYC we replace the picnic tables for a set of chairs and a table and choose to compare three downtown Maine lobster shack concepts: Pearl Oyster Bar, Mary’s Fish Camp, and Ed’s Lobster Bar.

Pearl Oyster Bar (18 Cornelia St. btw. Bleecker St. and W. 4th St.) – Rebecca Charles opened this New England clam shack in 1997 and set the course for a new culinary trend in NYC. The menu is split up amongst chilled seafood, small plates, and large plates. Bellybusters recommendation includes: ½ dozen Little Neck Clams on the half shell, PEI Mussels with wine, mustard and cream, Lobster Roll and shoestring fries (described by NY Magazine, “so good it makes Poseidon jealous.”), and a whole boiled lobster. In the wintertime we suggest substituting the clams or mussels for a bowl of Pearl’s creamy Clam Chowder. For dessert the Butterscotch Praline Parfait is to die for. Also keep an eye out for their whole fish-of-the-day - Pearl frequently offers harder to find whole fish from the Mediterranean.

Mary’s Fish Camp (64 Charles St. at W. 4th St.) – After spending a couple years as a chef/partner at Pearl; Mary Redding defected and opened up her own version of the New England style seafood spot. The menu at Mary’s is not as narrowly focused than her competitor, just a short walk away. Bellybusters recommendation include: Fried Oysters and Clams, Steamers with Butter, and Jumbo Lump Crab Au Gratin to start. For the main course we suggest the Lobster Knuckles, Lobster and Butternut Squash risotto, and any of the whole fish daily specials, grilled.

Ed’s Lobster Bar (222 Lafayette St. at Spring St.) – This Soho newcomer opened in 2007 and drew the immediate criticism/lawsuit from Rebecca Charles of Pearl. Rebecca claimed that Ed McFarland copied “each and every element” of Pearl Oyster Bar from the wainscoting to the dressing on his Caesar salad. Not to mention, Ed was Rebecca’s sous-chef for six years. Bellybusters verdict: Menu and décor are spitting images of each other. However, Ed’s is in no way the same ballpark as Pearl or Mary’s. We have to admit that the Lobster roll at Ed’s is a good alternative if one cannot patiently wait out the lines at either Mary’s or Pearls.

Alternative to the Pearl family tree:
Lure Fish Bar (142 Mercer St. at Prince St.) - If you are in the mood for seafood but are looking for an alternative to the “Maine Style Lobster Shacks” look no further than Lure Fish Bar, located in a subterranean space on Prince St. Lure’s authentic nautical décor will make you feel like you have just boarded the SS Minnow minus Gilligan and crew. With fresh sushi and raw bar items readily available, any seafood lover can surely be accommodated here. Add in a phenomenal grilled Caesar Salad and possibly the most overlooked burger in the city, Lure is a sure fire hit among any crowd.